Sunday, February 17, 2008

The Local Haunts of of Charleston

We had a great day in Charleston. We spent a fair amount of time walking around at the South Eastern Wildlife Conservation Exposition, reading up on various efforts, and speaking with different conservation and rescue groups. It was an interesting afternoon, and tied well in with the book "PlanB 3.0" that Bob has me reading. For those who don't know Bob and Ronda, I would say that the Earth is their cause.

We spent the remainder of the afternoon looking at shops and historic homes. My particular favorite style is the Charleston Single House style of building.My understanding is that it evolved from the narrow yet deep lots that people had to build on in the city. The house usually appears from the front as just a normal house with a front door, but the front door opens on to a side porch that runs the length of the house, in order to catch the breeze.


After a brief stop for an ice cream cone at Kilwin's (a Charleston institution for the sweet treats), we had the Main Event. I love doing walking ghost tours in Charleston. They are fun, can be a little spooky sometimes, and are a great way to get to know the city. Most of the guides, in addition to knowing the ghost stories, are very knowledgable about the history, and will gladly share information about the city as they walk you between story sites downtown. So we had our fill of walking around graveyards from the 1600s, voodoo witch doctors who had dark dealings, the ghost of John C Calhoun, and phantom Indians. If you ever come here, it is something you should do. I will say that the later the tour the better, if you are travelling without young children.


We dined at a fine steakhouse called Oak, where we had a fabulous meal. They had a vegan menu for Ronda (unusual for a steakhouse), but Bob and I went to town with the New York Strip. It has been a long while since I had a steak that good. I also enjoyed an appetizer of clams casino, and finished the evening with a glass of port. None of this a part of the healthy life style I am going for, but if I was going to have an evening's indulgence, I was going to do it right.


And so I leave today, but having spent a great vacation with two really great friends. I hope to be able to reciprocate for them in the near future, and have them up for a visit.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

The Sun Sets On Another Sea Voyage

Yesterday, sadly, was our last day of cruising. We awoke again to low temperatures, although it was six degrees warmer than the previous morning (46 degrees as compared to 40). This time Bob made the first move out of bed to make the coffee. For some reason, we decided that this was a good time to go for a swim to replace the zinc on the boat. Since Bob was the only one with a wet suit, we did not need to play paper-scissors-rock to make this decison. Bob bravely went forth and did the needful in 56 degree water, while I bravely handed him tools from the boat. Bob informs me that I am getting a wet suit for Christmas this year.

Afterwards, we had a good breakfast at Blackstone's in Beaufort, where they are well known for there omelets. They also have a collection of movie posters from all the movies that were made in Beaufort (such as "The Prince of Tides", "Forrest Gump", and "The Big Chill"). After breakfast. I dropped Bob back at the boat, and toured the marina in the dinghy, admiring many of the sailboats at anchorage there.

Bob's parents, Clive and Jennifer, motored out in their boat, the QEIII, and took me on a little tour of the Beaufort area from their boat. As beautiful as the view is from the Point out to the water, it is just as beautiful being out on the water looking back onto the land with also those magnificent mansions. It is truly a scene from the antebellum South. Later, we rejoined the Black Dog on her way to Cat Island Creek. She drooped her anchor outside of the channel, and we tied the QEIII along side her so that Bob and I could treat his parents to a lunch cooked aboard the boat. Afterwards, they took their leave, and we completed our trip to our mooring at Cat Island Creek. We tied up at 14:45, thus ending our epic voyage. As ever, we were sorry to see it end. Clive met us at the dock, and we off loaded our gear into Clive's car so that he could take us back to our car. We finished our evening in Charleston, watching Casablanca.

It was odd this morning to wake up in a real bed with a comfortable 65 degree room temperature. "Odd" is maybe not as accurate decription as "pleasant". Even better was taking a hot shower in a somewhat larger than 3 foot by 3 foot enclosure we had been showering in. Still, it was a great trip on the water, with some good sailing. The lack of creature comforts just enhances the experience. Hopefully, I will get my land legs back soon, and the ground will not feel like it is rocking. We are in anticipation of a good day downtown with a good dinner and interesting sights and activities.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Beaufort By The Sea

We got up this morning to 40 degree temperatures inside the boat, so we went back to bed for an hour. It did not significantly warm up in that time. I lost the coin toss, and got up to make coffee. Since the wind was poor, we headed to Beaufort anchor, and knock about there for the day. After dropping the hook, we took the dinghy to the local marina to have lunch at Hemmingway's. If you ever dine there, try the french onion soup. I thought it was great, and Bob informs me that it is every bit as good as that at Rue De Jean in Charleston, which I understand is noted for it's onion soup. Beaufort is like a quieter version of Charleston, so it was fun just looking around at interesting houses, and absorbing some history. We finished up are visit with a cup of coffee at the Common Ground. As we headed back to the marina, we admired a lot of nice sail boats anchored near us, and Bob took the
opportunity to quiz me on different types of rigging.

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Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Open Sea

We were up by 7 this morning for a quick breakfast at the Cobblestone Cafe, which I don't highly recommend, and we were underway from Savannah by 8:15 this morning. We made good time down the river, and were in the open seas by a half hour before noon! The wind started off light, but picked up soon enough, at we had a memorable sail. It got a little cold, and we had to navigate some rough water and a rain sqall or two, for which we broke out the foul weather gear. But cruising a long at eight knots makes it all worth it. We sailed back in to Port Royal Sound to drop anchor behind Hilton Head Island. A good 40 mile sail. Right now the winds are howling, and the temperature is supposed to be in the high twenties, so it will be an interesting night. But tomorrow promises to be another great day.

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Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Savannah!

We tied up at just about noon today at the city dock. After securing the boat and lunch at a non descript pub, we headed up to the muninciple building to pay the docking fee. We spent the afternoon roaming around town, as well as some boat maintenance. This evening, we headed to the Pirate House for a drink. This establishment is interesting for a couple of reasons. First, it has shanghai tunnels that were used back in the day, and were recently rediscovered. It was also the dwelling of notorious pirate Captain Fitch, who died there, and whose ghost is said to be one of many haunting the place. Local legend says that author Robert Louis Stevenson met the Captain there one night during a visit to the US, and that the Captain beame the inspiration for Stevenson's Treasure Island. Afterwords, we stopped at Churchill's Pub for some British fare for dinner. Tomorrow we will leave Savannah
against the tide, and run down the river to the ocean. We hope the winds are favorable for us.

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Monday, February 11, 2008

Weigh Anchor

Today was a great start. We left on the changing tide at just about twelve, which worked well in our favor. And although there was no wind when we set out, it was waiting for us at Port Royal Sound, at we made it from there to our anchorage under the force of the wind. The temperature is a little chilly, but we don't care so much about that. It is just good to be underway. Tomorrow, we will be off at first light, to take advantage of the rising tide. And them...Savannah!

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Sunday, February 10, 2008

Just Sit Right Back and You'll Hear a Tale...


The charts have been consulted, the gear has been loaded in the car, and the provisions have been accounted for. This is no three hour tour.

I arrived in Charleston yesterday evening, after a bit of a delay at Newark Liberty Airport. I was very happy to step outside at Charleston Municaple Airport. There was a warm breeze blowing, and I always imagine I can smell the sea from there. Bob was there to greet me, and even though it was late, we headed down for a late dinner at 82 Queen, where I enjoyed a dish of shrimp and grits, which had long been on my mind. Afterwards, we enjoyed the evening just by walking around town a bit, and then heading to the Southend Brewery and Smokehouse for a libation (the night air being dry and all). The beer is all made on premises, and if you ever get there, try the Southend Brown. I can give this one a personal recommendation. There is also a ghost story associated with the place, however the barkeep with whom I spoke had no personal experience of the ghost.

Today we headed to a sale at West Marine, to stock up on some boating gear that we felt we might need. And afterwards, Bob, Ronda, and I returned to Downtown Charleston to walk about the historic district and visit a few interesting galleries. We stooped by the Blind Tiger Pub to rest a little before hosting friends Dennis and Annie for a hastily thrown together cookout. We may have put it together hastily, but the food was good and so was the company. Hopefully Dennis will be able to drive down and meet us in Savannah. Soon we will finish watching the traditional pre-sail showing of "The African Queen".

Tomorrow morning, we will get up early for a drive down to Beaufort, where the boat is currently docked. Our plan is sail down close to Savannah and spend the night at anchor, then tie up in Savannah Tuesday morning. We will knock around town for a day, and then leave Wednesday morning for the ocean, where we will do some deep water sailing, and spend our nights at a suitable anchorage. We plan to be back in by Friday evening, and are planning a good nights entertainment for Saturday night in Charleston.

I will update this as I can during the trip, so check back occasionally if you like. I hope to be blogging you all soon.